While Km 18 and Dapa are cloud forests full of hummingbirds and tanagers, Sonso offers the perfect contrast: open water, floating vegetation, and remnants of seasonally flooded dry forest, with herons, ducks, and species not found in any other wetland in the region.
Key facts about Laguna de Sonso
| Protected area | 2,045 hectares, with about 745 hectares of open water |
| Location | Southwest of Buga, right bank of the Cauca River; El Porvenir and El Vínculo corregimientos |
| Elevation | About 937 m above sea level |
| Category | CVC Regional Integrated Management District (Agreement 105 of 2015); nature reserve since 1978 |
| Ramsar site | Since February 14, 2017, as the “Complejo de Humedales del Alto Río Cauca asociado a la Laguna de Sonso” |
| Recorded birds | 186 species, according to the CVC |
The horned screamer, Sonso’s flagship bird
The wetland’s emblematic species is the horned screamer (Anhima cornuta, locally called “buitre de ciénaga”), a large, dark bird with a thin horn on its forehead and a loud call that carries a long way. According to the CVC, Laguna de Sonso holds one of only two populations of the species in Valle del Cauca, which is why the wetland’s environmental education center is named after it.
Other birds you can see
- Waterbirds: fulvous whistling duck (Dendrocygna bicolor), herons such as the cocoi heron (Ardea cocoi) and the striated heron, anhinga, neotropic cormorant, wattled jacana, and black-necked stilt.
- Raptors: the osprey, seen mostly during the migratory season.
- Dry forest birds: the forest remnants host two species endemic to Colombia, the grayish piculet (Picumnus granadensis) and the apical flycatcher (Myiarchus apicalis).
- Boreal migrants: species arriving from North America include the blue-winged teal. The migratory season runs roughly from September to April.
Mammals such as the capybara, armadillo, and opossum have also been recorded in the area. The wetland has a well-known problem: water hyacinth, an introduced floating plant that covers part of the lagoon.
How to get to Laguna de Sonso
The visitor point is the CVC’s Buitre de Ciénaga Environmental Education Center, on the La Isabela property. According to the CVC, you get there via the Buga–Mediacanoa road: about 250 meters before crossing the Cauca River, turn left onto an unpaved road. From Cali, the drive to Buga is about 74 km on the dual carriageway.
Before you go, check opening hours with the CVC and whether you need to book, especially for groups. Local fishing communities also offer boat trips on the wetland; ask at the education center.
When to go and what to bring
- Time of day: early morning is when birds are most active; at dusk, many herons return to their roosts.
- Season: for migratory birds, roughly September to April.
- Gear: binoculars (8×42 or 10×42), neutral-colored clothing, a hat, sunscreen, insect repellent, and water; the midday heat in the valley is strong.
- Apps: eBird and Merlin work well for identifying species and logging your lists.
A birding weekend in Valle del Cauca
- Day 1, cloud forest: head out early to Km 18 and Dapa, above Cali, for hummingbirds and tanagers.
- Day 2, wetland: leave early for Sonso and spend the afternoon in Buga. Three kilometers south of the city is El Vínculo Regional Natural Park, a dry forest reserve.
Frequently asked questions about Laguna de Sonso
How many bird species live at Laguna de Sonso?
The CVC reports 186 bird species in the Laguna de Sonso Regional Integrated Management District, including residents and migrants.
What is the horned screamer?
It is Anhima cornuta, a large wetland bird with a horn on its forehead. It is Sonso’s flagship species, and the lagoon holds one of only two populations in Valle del Cauca.
Is Laguna de Sonso a Ramsar site?
Yes. It was designated a wetland of international importance on February 14, 2017, under the name “Complejo de Humedales del Alto Río Cauca asociado a la Laguna de Sonso”.
How do you get to Laguna de Sonso?
Via the Buga–Mediacanoa road: about 250 meters before crossing the Cauca River, turn left onto the unpaved road that leads to the CVC’s Buitre de Ciénaga Environmental Education Center.
Are pets allowed?
It is a protected area with wildlife; check with the CVC before bringing pets. Pets are usually not allowed in areas like this.
